DMA Hardware for Game Cheats — What to Buy: Card, Second PC, KmBox, Fuser

This article focuses on what hardware to buy for a DMA setup: what to order, in what order, and why each part matters. Full theory, BIOS, firmware, and common mistakes are in our complete DMA guide; DMA vs software cheats — DMA vs Software; how cheats work — How cheats work.

Minimum Kit

To run DMA at all, you need at least:

• A PCIe DMA card (FPGA) in a free slot on the gaming PC
• A second computer (laptop or mini-PC) with USB 3.0 — hosts the software and cheat client
• A USB cable between the card and the second PC (often included)
• Custom firmware (CFW) for your anti-cheat — from a firmware provider, not a generic marketplace listing

Budget ballpark excluding CFW — from ~$400 (card + second PC). Detailed numbers — in the DMA guide.

DMA Card (PCIe)

The card goes into PCIe x1 (longer slots work too). 35T, 75T, and 100T chips differ in speed and latency; for many use cases 35T is enough if software and CFW are solid.

Where to buy: from trusted sellers; scam listings are common. Our partner selection: DMA boards on AliExpress with buyer protection.

Second PC for Software

You don't game on it — only the cheat, PCILeech/MemProcFS, and the DMA client. An old laptop or cheap mini-PC works; aim for USB 3.0 and at least ~4 GB RAM.

KmBox and Makcu (Aimbot)

For ESP, memory read is enough. For aimbot, mouse movement must be hardware-level or anti-cheat will flag suspicious input. Use KmBox or Makcu between mouse/keyboard and the gaming PC.

Fuser and HDMI Combiner

If you don't want ESP only on the second PC's screen, you overlay onto the main monitor: Fuser or HDMI Combiner. Optional but handy for streaming and single-monitor setups.

All Hardware in One Place

Partner category for DMA parts: DMA hardware category →

Cheats on IVSOFTE

Ready-made DMA cheats by game — DMA cheat catalog. You buy hardware separately; licenses and CFW follow your anti-cheat tier (see tables in the main DMA guide).